Holiday in Morocco: episode 2

Essaouira

It is known for its Medina. Orson Welles shot scenes of his version of Othello in and around it. Jimi Hendrix wrote Castles Made of Sand here.

I had no idea how flaccid and lifeless Agadir was until I stepped inside the Medina walls. Stalls, populated by friendly chaps offering their wares at a steal. Narrow, high-walled alley-streets... it feels like there is equal chance of a street rat rushing by one step ahead of the breadline or would-be assassins falling under Jason Bourne's boot.

Since the Lonely Planet Morocco guide planned most of our trip... granted Gleb read it... when we got off of the bus, we could ignore all the people handing out cards for various hotels.

Despite the bustle of the place, it is easy to relax and forget about things “Up North”. The Riad had a rooftop terrace overlooking the sea and a mosque. Gleb felt compelled to point out its romantic ambiance and suggested putting the beds together.
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The Real Hustle

Our success with the magic boxes purchase bolstered our confidence in our bartering skill. It is said:”Pride doth come before a fall.”

A Bedouin shopkeeper stops us in the street. A rapid exchange of words outside his stall and [flash & puff of smoke] we are in his back room. He shows us pictures of a Sahara tour his family runs; camels, dunes, the works. We told him we would consider it. He stops us from leaving,“Do you not want tea?” We falter... In the garbled moments that followed Gleb was wrapped in scarves of indigo and I was shown “family made” jewelry.
On a scarf, Gleb got them down to 100Dh. Haggler 1 agreed to it, but insisted it was such a good deal that Gleb should give him the price of cigarettes too- “not profit at all, friend, just for cigarettes. Nothing more.” That was a 20% mark-up.

I got a ring. Haggler 2 insisted on getting Irish money as a souvenier,”I have a big collection. Even a 500Euro note”. 1 Euro coin. A 5% mark-up on the ring.

During the shafting:

• They got home field advantage [“Step into my parlour,” said the spider to the fly]
• They called us friend
• When asked a price they said- “There are only democratic prices here, Friend” forcing us to make the first offer
• They talked about everyone being happy with the deal

And most importantly...

• Changed tactics as soon as one failed

In Going Postal, Terry Pratchett describes hucksters superbly. When Moist Von Lipwig, a conman himself, meets Reacher Gilt, the villain, he marks him instantly as a kindred spirit because of his trustworthy smile and firm handshake. An accurate appraisal, in my humbled opinion.
Afterwards, Gleb and I marvelled at their skill. They had our measure from the moment we ambled gormlessly past their stall. Whether or not the jewelry was made by the family, the selling of the jewelry is certainly a family business. “While you are in the college, I have learned in the school of Life,”smiled Haggler 2.

At this point, further score keeping would be embarrassing...

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