The highlights of
L.A. and Hollywood were:
1.
The service, breakfast and tours organised by
the hostel
2.
The Warner Bros Studio Tour
3.
Salsa dancing in Santa Monica
4.
Craig Ferguson Show living taping
Breakfast in the hostel was all you can eat pancakes (make them
yourself), fruit and oatmeal. I thought the pancakes were a
wonderful touch, it was the first time that I went to a hostel where there was
complimentary hot food for breakfast. The oatmeal (even the “original” flavor)
wasn't great; I am used to high-grade, un-cut O, with no
additives.
The hostel organised a guided tour of Beverly Hills. The guy
that gave us the tour was a local, and a skinny-jeans-flannel-jacket-and-horn-rimmed-glasses-wearing-vegan-bagel-eatin’
dyed in the wool hipster. True to
his kind’s disdain for “mainstreaming”, we went by public bus. On our way to
the stop, he pointed out a huge Great Dane sitting in an open-top pink Cadillac.
He freaked out, about it as much as a hipster is permitted and "Instagrammed
that sh*t". I think his under-expressed enthusiasm about this slice of
Americana was representative of why I got a kick out of him; it was like he had
taken the 0-11 measure of intense emotional expression and scaled it down to
something feasible in the limited range of motion afforded by skinny jeans and
knitted caps. He had timed it so that we had a
moment to get a coffee before the bus arrived. He came out of the place with a
bacon and egg bagel, but a vegan version, which he ate without irony. The tour stops weren't memorable, but I had a great time listening to the guide go on.
Later that day a group of us booked
a spot on the Warner Bros Studio tour.
The customer service through-out the tour, including buying the tickets was
exemplary. When we got there, we ended up paying individually, there were 9 of
us and three paid with credit cards. The clerk remained friendly for the 10-15
minutes it took for our payments and worked around problems with two of the credit
card, all while the last-minute queue for the tour was snaking out behind us.
In Belgium, one would have been told to get the hell out of the shop, since no
money was worth hassle. The tour guide, Brad, was fantastic as well, passionate and knowledgeable about TV and film. I saw the sets for the
Mentalist, which was a big highlight for me, particularly seeing the couch
where Jane sleeps.1
The dancing highlight of the
entire America trip was a salsa party in Santa Monica. The teacher, Cristian Oviedo, is the current world bachata
and salsa champion, and an absolute gentleman. The live music, the standard of
dancing and the people were wonderful. I was sorry it didn’t go on longer.
I heard about the party via Internations, which I highly recommend
becoming a member of, because it has communities in most major cities and the
people are generally very social and open to newcomers even if it is just for a
short time.
Before I went to the Salsa party,
I did some training on the beach near
Santa Monica Pier. It was warm and cloudless, but a bit windy. There were
lots of people working out in the outdoor gym that was there – some even doing
youtube worthy stuff. I trained as the sun set, which took
forever. But it felt pretty cool to practice kung fu with an uninterrupted view
of the sun setting..2 It was also possible to take
Trapeze lessons on the pier, which I would have done, if they were cheaper or I
had time to do a couple of days of them.
The one thing that I did arrange before getting to the States was a ticket for a live taping of the Craig Ferguson Show. He’s easily my favourite
talk-show host. He’s easy going and irreverent, there doesn’t appear to be any
rehearsals at all, and the back and forth between him and his assistant Jeffery
Peterson the Robot Skeleton has a very natural rhythm to it that sets it apart
from the fake, a-bit-too planned feel I get from the other late night talk show
hosts. Watching him is like sitting in the pub and havin’ a chat.
His guests were Billy Connolly
and the girl playing the ghost in the SyFy version of Being Human. As far as I
can recall, we were sat down in the studio about 30-45 minutes before the recording
would begin. And we were introduced to Craig’s warm-up act, Chunky Steve –
Ostensibly the best warm-up act in the business. As far as I can gather, the
warm-up act is there to whip us into hysterics, so that we will laugh at
anything. He spent the duration lowering our threshold for what was an
acceptable joke. He picked on a couple of audience members, a blonde and a
teenage boy in particularly, since they are such easy targets. Any time we
didn’t laugh, he would chastise us and saying ”When I bust out the LOLs (the
index and thumb of each hand making “L”s), you gotta laugh like what you heard
was hilarious. Remember, mediocre comedian here.” He was like that friendly
uncle with the dirty sense of humour that was strangely charming. It easily
became the habit to laugh loudly at any joke. An example of mass hysteria, if
ever I’d heard of it. A phrase he kept coming back to was “being part of TV
magic.” The tone and reverence he gave the phrase was downright religious, much
like when my Beverly Hills guide had something to say about the obscene wealth,
scale, weirdness, or grandeur of celebrities and their lives. Anyway, as I
said, we, the audience, dived right into the zealotry. Our laughter was what we left on
the altar.3 You can see me below... I think.
Finally, Craig came out it was I
expected. The chatting between himself and Billy was warm and familiar, with
jokes thrown in all over the place. We laughed when we were supposed to, as
hard as we could. I don’t know about the rest, but I was happy to oversell how
funny a joke was, because I like Craig Ferguson and his show.
After Hollywood, I made my way by
public transport to New Port Beach.
Virtually no one uses public transport in California, car travel is so cheap
that it is almost exclusively very poor people that use buses. To the point
that my contact in Internations for the salsa party didn’t even know if night
buses from Santa Monica back to Hollywood existed and my friend in New Port
Beach didn’t know even it was possible to get there from LA just with trains
and buses. I stayed pretty relaxed on the trains, but the buses made me
nervous, since stops are rarely clearly indicated and bus drivers can forget
that you’ve asked them for a particular stop. But Google Maps saw me through. :)
Hanging out with my pal in New
Port Beach was excellent. It was our first time seeing each other in 7 years.
As it turned out, both of us were a bit worried that it would be an awkward
mess. We ate out at a Crow burger (Gourmet burger “joint”), a Mexican
restaurant where I ate Quinoa for the first time and had delicious guacamole.
During the day, when she was at work, I did some planning for the New York and
Boston legs of my trip, very fruitful kung fu training, and went to Road Runner
to get fitted for some runners (trainers in American). On the last Friday, we
went clubbing, most of the music sucked, but I did hear Thrift Shop by
Mackelmore for the first time, which I came back to Belgium declaring the song
to watch out for.
That Saturday we drove to San Diego Zoo, which was great fun. We
did just one tour – the Animal Man tour, led by an improve comedian who’s done
shows on HBO. We got to see pandas and a baby Giraffe (already over 1.8m tall…
baby my ass).
- No, that doesn’t sound weird at all. No sir-eee.
- I’ve seen a couple of uninterrupted sunsets in Ireland, but either because this was in Santa Monica in California and it would be my only chance to see one this far West for the foreseeable future, or because the sunset is qualitatively better closer to the equator, this one is a special one.
- I’m trying to sound like the guys from Top Gear, when they say something profound about a class of car being discontinued.
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